A Complete Guide to Dual Forms for Beautiful Nails: Beginner to Pro
Dual forms are the most convenient little bits of plastic you’ll ever use. They are the fastest way to build gorgeous extensions with poly gel or builder gel. This complete guide to dual forms for beautiful nails will take you from beginner to pro so you can get started today.
What Are Dual Forms?
You know those paper forms for shaping acrylic nails? Dual forms are the reusable version. But instead of guesswork trying to roll the paper to the right size, these forms come sized, shaped, and marked so you can get consistent lengths every time.
A Complete Overview of Dual Nail Forms
Dual forms work with both poly gel and builder gel. Let’s discuss dual forms with poly gel first. The technique for builder gel is almost the same, and we’ll summarize that at the bottom.
Poly gel is a hybrid of the best parts of acrylic and gel for nail sculpting. It’s odorless, premixed, and won’t set until it’s cured. It’s ideal if you’ve always wanted to work with acrylic but were put off by the learning curve. Moreover, poly gel is more affordable because you don’t need pricey natural hair brushes or a bunch of different powders. Instead, it’s ready to use right out of the tube and comes in beautiful sheer colors that only need base and top coats to complete a manicure. It’s also safer for skin and nails.
How to Use Dual Forms for Nail Extensions
The name “dual forms” is deceptive. It makes it sound like you need two for each fingertip. In reality, you just need one. The nail molds are called “dual” because they can be used with both kinds of nail sculpting gel.
They come in a box of various sizes, so the first step is to choose the style that appeals to you. Do you prefer almond, oval, square-tipped or stiletto extensions?
Next, select the correct size for each nail. The translucent ABS plastic is marked with numbers to help you keep track of what size you’re using. There are fifteen different sizes, from 0 to 14.
Make it easier on yourself by laying them out in order. Feel free to use a pen or non-permanent to mark the top side to help you remember how long you want the extensions to be. Don’t worry because you can clean and reuse the dual forms because they are resistant to acetone and alcohol.
Notice that the dual forms are firm but flexible. They bend if you squeeze them, which comes in handy when it’s time to remove them after curing.
Now it’s time to make sure your tools are ready. You’ll need a brush for sculpting extensions with poly gel inside the forms and a nail lamp to cure them. Since this is a gel manicure, you’ll also need base and top coats and any other colors or nail art supplies.
There’s one other thing you’ll need to use poly gel and dual forms for nail extensions. It’s called slip solution and it’s like rubbing alcohol. It allows your brush to glide over the poly gel without the product sticking to the bristles. It’s essential for shaping and smoothing the gel inside the form.
In the image of the slip solution below, notice that the artist has pushed down the inner lid and created a little puddle of liquid on top of the bottle. Now she can dip her brush in that without contaminating the rest of the bottle.
LAVIS Slip Solution Poly Gel 100ml
After you’ve prepped the natural nails and applied the base coat, it’s time to dispense a little poly gel into a dual form and get started sculpting an extension. Start with a pea-size amount. It has a toothpaste-like consistency so it’s easy to control.
LAVIS Poly Extension Gel New
Dip your brush in the slip solution and start smoothing the poly gel inside the dual form, starting at the base, working towards the tip. Here the artist is using an oval sculpture brush that has a spatula on the other end. The spatula is convenient for scooping products like poly gel and builder gel in the jar.
LAVIS Double Ended Oval #8 & Spatula Brush
After you’ve filled the dual form to build extensions as long as you want them, flip it and press it into place on the natural nail. Bring it in at a 45° angle starting at the cuticle and lower it into place towards the tip.
Notice in the images that the artist’s fingertip has gone white. She’s pressing pretty hard on the dual form. She’s not squeezing the sides or pinching the form. She’s pushing downward and she’ll continue to hold the form in place while she cures the poly gel.
Don’t worry if poly gel squeezes out the sides. This can happen if you’ve overfilled the mold. Just wipe off the excess before curing the nail. You’ll get the hang of it after you’ve done it a few times.
Lavis Builder Gel in the Jar
Cure the poly gel according to the instructions. With an LED lamp, it may take 60 to 90 seconds or a little longer if it’s a darker color.
Now you’re ready to see how the extension turned out. Squeeze the sides of the dual form and twist it to release it.
There will likely be a little excess on the sides and tip, so pull out your trusty nail file and smooth the edges.
After you wipe off the debris from filing, all you need is a top coat to finish this manicure. Remember to coat the underside of the extension, too.
If you want to keep going, feel free to embellish the nails however you like.
Here are the finished nails created with milky white poly gel, dual forms, and a glossy top coat. The average time for a pro to complete the manicure is around 40 minutes, including nail prep. Beginners might need twice that long.
Dual Forms and Bulder Gel Extensions
If you’re using hard gel, or builder gel in a jar, to create extensions, you can also use dual forms to shape them. The process is close to what’s described above. However, you won’t need slip solution to help shape the builder gel. You’ll still need a brush, a nail lamp, and base and top coats. It’s handy to have a precision brush to help smooth the builder gel along the edges. Remember that builder gel goes on best with a side to side swishy motion. It also self-levels, so you can turn the hand upside down to let gravity help you build a natural arch.
Conclusion
Now that you’ve seen a complete guide to dual forms for sculpting beautiful nails, all you need are a few supplies. You can find them in our store at prices that will make you smile! What’s more, become a member of our rewards program to unlock exclusive discounts and perks.